September 2022 @ Seoul
At the beginning of September 2022, I traveled to Seoul, South Korea.
It was tremendously fun and fascinating.
Thanks to expanding exchanges with overseas collectors recently, I was able to obtain information about Korea both in advance and in real time, which allowed me to fully enjoy my time there.
Regarding travel matters — a concern during the COVID-19 pandemic — Seoul immigration approved visa-free travel just before my trip, but PCR tests were required both on departure and return. The testing itself was smooth without any real congestion, but it added extra cost and time. Flights were also on the pricey side.
This somewhat desolate Seoul cityscape shows a recommended Korean BBQ restaurant that a Korean collector called Nix (pseudonym) had introduced to me. However, it had been demolished shortly before our visit and had been magnificently converted into a parking lot. Our group’s disappointment at rushing over without knowing this was profound…
Even so, Nix provided plenty of other art-related information, making my time in Seoul enjoyable.
The network of art collectors is globally connected, and among fellow collectors who share the same passion, the advice throughout was spot-on. Thank you very much.
Frieze Seoul 2022
The main purpose of this trip was, without question, “Frieze Seoul 2022.”
I went to observe the excitement of Frieze, the art fair making its first foray into Asia.
As expected from the pre-fair information, the Korean government put its full weight behind boosting the fair.
Whether true or not, some reports suggest that the current Korean First Lady is a contemporary art fan, and that troublesome domestic coordination and procedures proceeded smoothly as a result.
Indeed, if you are a fan of contemporary art, you likely had a great time.
There were various exhibitions and events happening all over the place, and seeing everything would have taken quite a lot of time. Some art watchers even went beyond Seoul to visit the Busan Biennale, but during the few days I was there, it was impossible to cover everything.
Frieze Seoul was truly enjoyable. Below is a brief photo report — please take it as reference only. There are many photos I missed, and I regret it very much.
Art Collection
This time, my collecting results at Frieze Seoul and KIAF were modest, but while trying not to be swept away by the on-site atmosphere, I still found myself in a high-tension tug-of-war with my wallet. I also revealed my sad shortcoming of being so absorbed in viewing that I failed to take the photos I should have.
It was very encouraging to see Japanese artists thriving on the international stage. Whenever works by Kei Imazu, Atsushi Kaga, Yuichi Hirako, or Yukimasa Ida were shown by overseas galleries and selling briskly, I felt genuinely happy.
Most galleries finalize their deals before the VIP preview, and it is generally the case that on site you can only buy leftover works from pre-sales, or that galleries take a sales stance focused on museums and similar buyers. This time, however, Atsushi Kaga’s works were available on a first-come basis. It seems that after the venue opened, people rushed to the booth, but even 30 minutes to an hour later, works were still available for purchase. A collector acquaintance of mine was delighted.
Art fairs leave open the possibility of next-time opportunities even when only pre-sold works remain. Although a work I wanted had already sold, the gallery introduced me to something even better. My English was broken, but surprisingly it got through.
After returning to Japan, I stumbled over the payment for my purchased works. Fed up with the complexity of bank transfer procedures, I paid by credit card — but a hefty processing fee was added on, delivering a double shock together with the weak yen. Credit card payment requires caution.
KIAF
KIAF had strong affinity with Frieze Seoul and was equally lively. The venues were on different floors of the same building, and admission tickets were shared, so it was easy to move back and forth between the two fairs.
KIAF was on the first floor, making it easily accessible when I tired of walking around Frieze Seoul on the third floor and wanted to rest at the gourmet street on B1 before heading back.
Galleries in Seoul
I also thoroughly enjoyed gallery-hopping in Seoul.
There were plenty of major exhibitions scheduled to coincide with Frieze Seoul.
I was surprised at how affordable Ghenie’s drawings were. A collector acquaintance managed to snag one, but I was ignored by the gallerists…
For collectors like me who haven’t built relationships with overseas galleries, we need to think about various approaches — making appointments in advance, relying on art dealer connections, and so on. Perhaps dressing more properly, or asking an art dealer to help out…
Kiefer at Ropac Seoul was incredible — the sheer intensity…
Staying in Korea
Thanks to the global spread of smartphones, staying in Korea was very comfortable.
First, what I found essential was an “e-SIM.” As an iPhone user with a SIM-lock-free device, I purchased a Korean e-SIM online. For just $20, I got a package with 15GB of data, usable directly on my iPhone. An e-SIM is far more convenient than renting a pocket Wi-Fi locally. This is truly a must-have item.
Taxi fares were cheap, and I basically relied on taxis for local travel.
Since Google Maps hardly works, I made full use of Naver Map and communicated with drivers. In Shanghai, China — which I visited via events like 021 and West Bund — the DiDi taxi app was convenient and easy to use, but here I could not properly set up the standard “KAKAO Taxi” app, so I ended up communicating with each driver individually. Incidentally, many drivers dislike cash payment, and I got by mostly with a credit card even without cash. The only place I was forced to pay in cash was the subway to the airport, if I recall correctly.
Since smartphone usage increases, a mobile battery pack is also a good idea.
Cuisine
Enjoying delicious meals is one of the highlights of staying in Seoul.
The crab I had on the first night was incredibly delicious.
Ganjang gejang and yangnyeom gejang were the best.
Korean-style steamed egg “gyeranjjim” was also delicious. Like an omelet, with a soft and fluffy texture similar to chawanmushi.
Of course, I went for Korean BBQ as well. I went to both a casual and a high-end place, each with its own charm.
I had breakfast with dried pollack soup, “pugeoguk.” That was delicious too.
Gomtang was easily accessible right within the building where Frieze Seoul was held.
The Weight of Payments and Shipping Costs
Now, what awaited me after returning from Korea was the double punch of paying for purchased works and shipping costs.
Under the extreme yen depreciation, I was constantly on edge with a volatile foreign exchange market — basically drifting between 142 and 145 yen to the dollar in a weak-yen direction. It hit me hard. Yen depreciation is a huge barrier for Japanese collectors.
As for shipping, the response varied by gallery: some went to great lengths to accommodate on various fronts, while others simply steered me toward whatever operation was convenient on their end. It’s advisable to confirm shipping details at the time of purchase. Having limited experience purchasing at overseas fairs, this was also a learning opportunity. I’d like to write about it in an article someday.
The New York gallery was able to ship from their partner gallery in Seoul, so it was relatively affordable, but the Paris gallery in France was a headache. In addition to transporting the work from Paris, they insisted on shipping in a very large crate via fine-art shipping, and even for an F8-size work it cost about 400,000 yen. Since the work was heavily impasto, I understood the careful shipping method upon arrival — “I see!” — but the expense was substantial and honestly beyond what I had anticipated.
Summary
I’ve written this in a bit of a rush, but I hope I’ve conveyed some sense of the atmosphere.
If any art collector out there is even slightly interested, I highly recommend attending Frieze Seoul 2023. Even without collecting anything, just going will be a satisfying experience!
